Part 2 of 3. Produced in 2014 for Kamusta? Magazine.
Words by Roehl Niño Bautista. Photos by Joseph Angan.
Night fell on the hut of Apo Totoy, the leader of the Abelling Tribe elders. Except for the house of vice chieftain Manong Johnny almost a hundred meters away, there were no strong lights along Sitio San Pedro.
The moon was out and the clouds were nowhere, setting the sky as the perfect stage for stars to shine their brightest.
Tenten, 12 years old, pointed up to a shooting star, or bulalakaw. “Kuya, alam mo bang natutupad ang gusto mo kapag humiling ka sa bulalakaw?” (“Big brother, did you know that your wishes come true if you wish on a shooting star?”)
“Mahirap ang buhay dito, kuya,” the young girl added without prompting. “Noong nalaglag ang kapatid ko sa puno, namalimos si nanay sa bayan pampagamot.” (“Life is hard here, big brother. When my brother fell from a tree, mom had to beg for money in the city so he could be treated.”)
“Pagkatapos kong makakita ng bulalakaw, gumaling siya.” (“After I saw a shooting star, he got better.”)
For the Abelling, the anito-hosting elders are their healers. Tenten never answered if they asked for an elder’s help. For her, the bulalakaw was what healed her brother.
Dinner time came for the Abelling elders. Manong Johnny led the prayer, with everyone making the sign of the cross before everyone ate on the floor. A few hours later, the same floor would be the stage for a ritualistic summoning of ancient spirits.
Transfer of power
A familiar chanting and guitar strumming was heard a few meters away from Apo Totoy’s hut. The second floor, which could fit two huge 4×4 vehicles, was packed with more than three dozen people.
Apo Totoy was crouching next to Mang Berting, who earlier wore a shirt from a university in Metro Manila. He was now wearing an all-white, military-inspired costume with the word “general” stitched in silver on the back.
Tonight’s mission, as it had been each night for the past week, was to transfer leadership from Apo Totoy to Mang Berting.
Three years ago, Mang Berting’s father, who was possessed by the highest-ranked anito, passed away. The now-50-year-old farmer was supposed to inherit the spirit and lead, but he rejected the responsibility and the anito was lost. Apo Totoy, who was then second-in-command, assumed leadership.
But now that the former successor, Mang Berting, has embraced his task, the lead anito doesn’t seem to see him fit anymore. The Anito Festival, according to the elders, is the last chance for him to claim his rightful place in the circle of hosts.
For almost a week, the elders have been trying to summon the anito that once possesed Mang Berting’s father. They danced in a small circle, drinking gin laced with betel nut (“That’s strong stuff,” said Manong Johnny in their local dialect) as they let their own anitos take control of their body, dancing to the tune of rapid strumming of strings and beating of water bottles.
But Mang Berting, who earlier tried to dance with his eyes closed, remained squatted on the floor, seemingly unmoved by any of the activity.
The elders sat down in discussion. “May kulang pa daw,” a local translated to us. “Hindi nila malaman kung bakit ayaw sumapi ng anito.” (“Something’s missing. They don’t know why the anito won’t possess him.”)
Another round of gin was passed to the elders. One by one, the elders stood in seemingly drunken stupor, stomping and wailing until at least five of them had taken the floor.
It was a repetitive: an elder would dance, another would join, dancing would stop as a guitar string would break. At one point, a male elder danced while swinging a bladed-weapon. Later, a female elder slipped between the male and the blade to bite on the weapon.
Yet amid the spiritual frenzy, Mang Berting was unmoved.
It seemed that the head anito won’t be coming, at least not tonight.
Ten minutes before midnight, nothing else happened. Other locals and visitors retreated. “Hanggang madaling araw sila kahapon, baka mamaya ganun ulit,” warned one of the locals. (“They kept trying until early morning last time, and maybe tonight will be the same.”)
We had a long day and were ready to call it a night when Mang Berting suddenly stood up, much to the cheer of those watching outside the circle. Eyes closed, he swayed around the center. The percussion and strumming went faster, and more elders joined in the tribal routine as his shaking went more erratic.
“Pero hindi pa siya sinasaniban hanggang hindi pa siya nagsasalita,” explained another local. (“He hasn’t been possessed until he starts talking, though.”) Elders possessed by an anito would speak in tongues. Mang Berting, now dancing as wild as the others, had his mouth shut.
Then he stopped dancing.
Looking frustrated, he squatted on the floor once again, trying to muster the same feeling. It’s past midnight. Tired, we called it a night and retreated in a local daycare center.
In the morning, we learned that like previous nights, the head anito hadn’t come at all.
Last chance to reclaim lost anito
“Hindi ko alam kung saan pumupunta yung paa ko,” Mang Berting told Kamusta? Magazine. “Pinipigilan ko lang kasi baka maka-apak ako ng tao.” (“I didn’t know where my feet were going. I was holding back because I might step on someone.”
He was now back in casual clothes. His white military-esque outfit had been worn by Apo Totoy in a previous ceremony.
“Para sa akin, gustung-gusto ko nang sumakay [ang anito], kasi dito magtatapos na [‘yung mga matatanda], parang kurso ba. Ako naman ang susunod na magdadala ng henerasyon,” he told us. “Parang nalulungkot ako na hindi sumasanib sa akin.” (“If it was up to me, I really want the anito to possess me because the elders are getting old. I could be next, to carry the anito to the next generation. I’m sad that it hasn’t possessed me.”)
The Anito Festival was set to end that night. It would be the last chance for the head anito, once hosted by Mang Berting’s father, to be summoned to him.
“Sabi ng mga matatanda, kapag hindi sumanib [kay Mang Berting], maaaring may masamang mangyari sa kaniya,” explained Manong Johnny. (“The elders say that if the anito doesn’t possess Mang Berting, something bad might happen to him.”)
Our group left for Manila that night, not witnessing the final attempt to call on the head anito.
Mang Johnny sent us a text message the next day, saying the transfer of leadership to Mang Berting failed, and that Apo Totoy will remain as head of the elders until it’s his turn to transfer his anito to his own chosen successor.
Part 1
Part 3
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